You’ve played petanque for years in the U.S.; now it’s time to go up against the home team. So you head up to Fontvieille where, at the entrance to the town, is a public park with three tiers of courts. You show up a little after three in the afternoon and a game is already underway: two teams, three guys per team, each person plays two boules, and the first team to 13 wins. So you watch, hang out on the “sidelines” (the court today has no official boundaries) and look interested.
You are ignored complètement, as they click their
boules, kick the dirt, shoot, and argue about points and strategy with big
gestures. You even hear a disgusted “Merde!”
and most likely other curses for which your paltry French has no meaning. So you start up a conversation with an old
dude in a wheelchair, also observing the action. After a particularly good shot he points and
says “Un champion.” He used to play, but, ah, no more, he
says tapping his right thigh. At the end
of his leg is not a foot, or a prosthetic foot, but a chrome peg with a black rubber
stopper on the end. “Je suis fini,” he
says.
It is clear that not even a
surly look, much less a “Bonjour” will emerge from this tough crowd, so you
walk up to one of the other courts where a game is in progress, this time with
two old guys on one team and an old guy and a chunky farm girl on the
other. No acknowledgement from any of
them either, although you do strike up a conversation with an old dude, walking
his dog, but has stopped to check out the action. Finally you decide it’s time to break out
your boules, even if it’s only to
play with yourself (sorry about that
image) and get used to how the boules
land and roll on the hard court surface.
The next morning, having a
coffee at the café just down from the courts.
You see one of the guys from the game yesterday and say you saw him
playing, and “Je voudrais a jouer petanque avec lui et ses amis.” He nods and says to come today. You can’t, but you tell him you will see him
another day. Bien.
Better not let her hear you calling her chunky!
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